Gwangjang Market

Gwangjang Market has been running since 1905 — nearly 120 years — and started out known for wholesale fabric and secondhand clothing. These days, its food alley is the bigger draw: bindaetteok (crispy mung bean pancakes), knife-cut noodles, raw beef tartare, and the kimbap so addictively good that Koreans nicknamed it 'drug kimbap' — a compliment about the taste, not an actual ingredient.

Honest heads-up: pricing can vary stall to stall and isn't always posted clearly, so glance at the menu before ordering to avoid surprises. Many stalls only take cash or bank transfer, not cards, so come prepared.

Local tip: the food alley generally runs 9am-11pm, though it varies stall to stall, and many clothing stalls close on Sundays, so the market can feel half-empty that day. It's busiest at lunch (noon-1pm) and dinner (6-8pm) — for a calmer visit, try 10-11am or 3-4pm. Famous stalls can have long lines, so build in extra time.