Seoul's classic nogari (dried pollack) alley, running since the 1980s, where narrow pubs line up between old print shops and hardware stores. As the sun sets, only this lane seems to light up.
Recently, trendy bars and pubs opened by young chefs have moved into the back alleys, earning the nickname 'Hip-jiro.' The original nogari joints remain cheap, but the new bars can be surprisingly pricey for a back alley, so where you sit makes a big price difference.
Honest tips: it is quiet early in the evening and gets crowded fast after 7 p.m. — for a calmer visit aim for right after opening. To enjoy the print-shop-alley atmosphere, seek out old establishments over renovated interiors, and carry cash wherever you go. A three-minute walk from Euljiro 3-ga station, it pairs well with Gwangjang Market and Chungmuro for a full day.
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